How to get your dog to stop chewing

Chewing is an annoying but natural part of a puppy’s development. It is very similar to teething in babies and the stages of chewing are necessary to help with teething problems. Expecting a puppy not to bite is unreasonable, but it can be taught to chew on the right thing, instead of on your shoes and furniture. Adult dogs that chew often are bored or suffering from separation anxiety disorder. In general, adult chewing dogs can be taught to control their behavior or chew appropriately with relative ease. Some will require the professional assistance of a dog trainer or behavior specialist.

growth stages

Puppies chew when they are teething. This usually occurs sometime before the six-month stage, depending on the specific breed of dog. Some of the larger breeds may continue to chew past the six month stage and some breeds are only known for chewing behaviors. Regardless of the breed, up to six months will be problematic for most puppies. There are several steps owners can take to minimize the damage that can occur from chewing behaviors:

· Puppy-proof your home. This means removing all hanging cords, electrical cords, curtain pulls, and other hanging objects. Hanging plants that touch the ground can also be tempting to chew on and can also be poisonous.

· Keep chewable items in drawers or out of reach of puppies. For example, toys, shoes, remote controls, books, backpacks and briefcases, phones, and even laptops should be stored or kept on tables or desks out of reach of puppies.

· Provide a wide variety of chew toys while you are gone. This means different shapes and sizes. Thick pieces of cotton rope with knots at the ends are ideal for chewing. Heavy rubber balls or Nylabone chew toys are safe and virtually indestructible.

Freezing dog teething rings and leaving them in the crate or dog area of ​​the house provides gum relief as well as entertainment.

If you notice that the puppy chews something that is not correct, do not punish him. Just say “No” and substitute what he wants you to chew. Praise them when they are chewing on the right things. Be sure to say something like “Good boy/girl for chewing on your ball (rope, toy, stick).” This helps the puppy learn the word for what he is chewing on. Later you can say “Get the ball/stick/rope” and the puppy will know what you mean.

toys to avoid

Some toys, even those sold in pet stores, should never be used with a puppy. Toys that are flimsy or have lots of chewable parts are choking hazards. Toys that have long strings or cords that could wrap around a puppy’s neck are potentially deadly toys.

Stuffed animals are appropriate for some puppies and older dogs, but for younger puppies who chew constantly, the stuffed toy will quickly shred. This leaves pieces of fabric and padding that can be swallowed and cause gastrointestinal blockages and possible choking problems.

Natural bones, even raw bones, are generally not recommended for puppies. They are usually too hard for puppy teeth and lead to chipping and breaking of existing teeth. Also, puppies are more likely to try to swallow the splinters and this can lead to bone splinters getting lodged in their gums or throat. If you want to allow your pup to chew bones, make sure they are raw beef bones from a joint. Never allow your dog to eat pork bones and never allow raw or cooked poultry bones of any kind. Supervise the puppy while it chews on the bone and remove it at any sign of chipping or when the bone becomes small enough that the puppy tries to swallow it.

The chewing phase in puppies, like the teething phase in children, will pass. Taking a few precautions with your household items, providing plenty of alternative chew toys, and teaching your pup what to chew on stage will go over just fine now or in the future.


Homemade Dog Toys – 7 Toys You Can Make Yourself For Under $5 – Your Dog Will Love Them

vibrating screen

This toy will take you about 5 minutes to make. Take the paper towel roll when it’s empty (or the toilet paper roll for small dogs) and fill it with a couple of small dog treats. Seal both ends with some duct tape. Shake it in front of your dog and watch him go crazy when you give it to him. They will be able to smell the treats with their keen sense of smell. You may want to do two or three of them at a time if you have a destructive dog. They will have a lot of fun with it. You can use your imagination with what you want to put in the toy. Your dog will love it! Free

frisbee rope

I’m sure you’ve noticed how the hard plastic on a Frisbee is very hard on your dog’s mouth, so you should make a Frisbee out of a softer but still strong material. Pet stores will charge you upwards of $10 for a good piece of cotton rope, but you can get one for less than $2. Take a trip to the hardware store and buy a foot (or so) of thick, braided cotton rope. When you get it home, sew the two ends together with some thick stitches. You can do it by hand…yes you can. Now you have a Frisbee String and your dog will love it. Cost: about $2

tug of war

Another way you can use the rope you bought at the hardware store is to tie both ends of the rope together and play “Tug of War.” What dog doesn’t love to do that? Again, the pet store charges way too much money for something so simple. Your dog certainly doesn’t care where he came from. This rope is great for strengthening jaw muscles not to mention how much fun they will have playing with you. Cost: about $2

mr sock

There are a few variations of using this toy, but these two are the most popular:

Take a new sweat sock and put a tennis ball in it. You can draw a funny face on it if you want, and then tie a knot in the sock to keep the ball in place. You can only imagine how much fun your dog can have with this. They’ll love tossing that sock around and chasing after it when it bounces back. This is also a good quest game. Cost: about $2

Then take another new sock, draw a funny face and put your hand inside. Use it as a hand puppet by talking and gently biting your dog’s ears and nose. They may be confused at first, but they will figure it out very quickly. Always wear a new sock because it will make them look different than the ones you are wearing. If they don’t have your scent and have a face drawn on them, they won’t look like the ones you wear around the house. Cost: about $2

the shell game

Use three plastic cups (make sure they are not see-through) and a dog treat for this game. Flip the cups over and place the treat under one of them. Keep changing the glasses very fast so that it confuses your dog. Once you stop, have your dog choose which cup the treat is in. Trust me, your dog will always win and have a lot of fun doing it. Free

break the pinata

This game is very similar to the one played by humans. Take a brown paper bag, draw a traditional

pinata design and fill it with some dog treats. Then tie it to a post with a string at the end and swing it in front of your dog. This is a great exercise because of all the jumping your dog will do. They will love it! Free

Swing the plastic bottle

Things you’ll need: Empty plastic bottle (any size); a straw; knitting needle

Punch holes on each side of your plastic bottle.

Thread the straw through the holes, and then thread the knitting needle through the straw. It needs to be able to swing, so you’ll need the knitting needle to be longer than the straw.

You should be able to have both hands on either side of the knitting needle that is holding the bottle. Make sure the holes are about a quarter of the way up the bottle, which will prevent the bottle from becoming too heavy. Place a treat inside the bottle, hold your hand on either side, and have your dog rock the bottle until the treat falls out of the open top. This will keep them entertained for a long time. Cost: about $3


Is it safe to have rats and a cat in the same house?

A question I get asked a lot is whether it is possible for those who already have a cat to adopt rats as pets. There are a number of factors to consider before making this decision. While there are some people who say their cat poses no threat to their rodent friends and happily post pictures of their cat and rat getting along, this is a very rare occurrence and should not be treated as the norm.

I should note at this stage that I live with my 2 pet rats, Pea and Mingles, my dog, Charlie, a Maltese x Shitzu, and my cat, Dylan, a Ragdoll x Persian. All of my animals are rescues and they are all wonderful in different ways. However, despite his Ragdoll bloodline, Dylan definitely has hunting instincts and would never let rats run out of the rat cage while he is in the room. It is important to remember that even if he chooses a gentle breed like a pure Ragdoll cat and has them from a kitten, he should never leave them outside with his pet rats.

It is possible to have pet rats if you have a cat, though you should weigh the pros and cons before adopting your new pets. Here are some things to consider:

1. Separation – You should be able to easily separate your cat from the rats when you want to let them out. This could mean using a spare room as a tattered room. This is what I do. The guest room is free of rat hazards such as wires, sharp objects, and small things that they could choke on. It is also completely sealed. There are no little holes in the wall for rats to escape through. I try to spend an hour a day there with my rats. We can play together and I can train with them safely, away from the claws and teeth of naughty cats. I also have lots of fun tubes, boxes, and even a rat pool for them to explore. Cats are usually fine with this time outside and as long as they have enough space to roam and their food, water and litter tray (and in our case a companion dog) they will be fine.

2.Security – You will need to be 100% sure that your rat cage is secure. Of course, he would have to do this anyway, because he wouldn’t want his rats to escape and put themselves in danger. When we first adopted our two rats Pea and Mingles, the former owners gave us their cage and it had a hole in it. It was a small hole and I blocked it off with plastic boxes and duct tape, but I had the shock of my life when I found Pea running across the floor with Dylan the cat about to jump out. Luckily I picked Pea up on time and the rats have since moved into a 100% secure (and huge!) cage, but please don’t let your pets get into this situation. Rats are notorious escape artists. You may think that the space is too small for them to get out, but they will surprise you. Make sure the rat cage is sturdy (can’t tip over) and that there are plenty of areas for the rats to hide from prying eyes.

3. Common sense – You know your cat better than anyone, but even if you have the gentlest cat in the world who seems to want to be friends with your rats, be very careful and never leave them together unattended. I can make my rats sit on my shoulder while Dylan sits next to me on the couch, but if he sits on top of the couch, I’m very careful. Rat tails are irresistible to most cats.

If you have a cat and are willing to go the extra mile to ensure the safety of your rats, then there is no reason why you shouldn’t keep rodents as pets. However, make sure you have more than one rat. This is always better as the rats can keep each other company when they are in their cage. Even if you can spend a lot of time with your rat, when you are outside or sleeping, rats can snuggle, play together and groom each other. It will make all the difference in their lives.

Rats can seem fearless at times, but if you have more than one cat, maybe you should think about whether a rat is really a good pet for you and your family. Imagine how the rats will feel when all the cats investigate the cage and try to find ways to get in.

If you have decided to adopt some rats, make sure you take responsibility for their well-being. If you have a child who has begged you for rats, they may learn some responsibility, but in the end it is the adult who must ensure the welfare of the animals and make sure that cats are not a problem. It’s also essential to make sure your cats get as much attention as before, before new additions.

I hope this article has helped you determine if keeping rats and cats together might work for your family.

Good luck!


Siberian Husky Information for Breeders and Buyers

The Siberian Husky is a purebred dog recognized by the American Kennel Club (AKC) as a breed in 1930. The Siberian Husky is a descendant of the “eskimo dog” or sled dog, and is also a member of the larger Spitz group. of dogs that derive from the Arctic. Their Spitz relatives include the Chow Chow and the Pomeranian. Their husky relatives include the Alaskan Malamute and the Samoyed. The Siberian Husky has traits from both groups, including the high-set triangular ears and curly, shaggy tail of the Spitz and the thick double coat of insulating fur and general wolf-like appearance of the Eskimo Dog and other Huskies.

Siberian Huskies were brought to Alaska in 1909 to participate in sledding competitions. His stamina and intelligence helped the husky win many sled races. This breed of dog is more commonly used in American Kennel Club competition than it is in today’s sled breeds, but the traits needed to pull sleds are still the traits needed to win.

Behavioral traits common to Siberian Huskies can be problematic for the wrong owner. Like wolves, Siberian Huskies howl. This excessive howling can surprise an unsuspecting owner. Huskies are independent, stubborn, energetic pack animals that require specific care and training to maintain their happiness and health. Siberian Husky breeders will not sell puppies to owners who are uninformed about the breed. This is because there is a disproportionate number of Huskies sitting in shelters and rescue centers because their uneducated owners wanted a beautiful dog but did not research the behavioral characteristics of the breed. Siberian Huskies are considered one of the best property insurance raising dogs due to their tendency to escape and run. Other “bad” dogs on this list include Rottweilers and Pit Bulls.

Siberian Huskies, like wolves, have a pack mentality and are unhappy and bored without constant interaction with humans or other dogs. They need plenty of room to run and will become destructive if tied up or cooperative in a pen. They have a lot of fur and therefore a lot of fur to shed. Potential owners should know how to care for their husky before they purchase it.

Siberian Husky breeders will not sell purebred Huskies to just anyone. In fact, breeders may have more questions for potential buyers than buyers have for breeders. Due to the high incidence of abandonment for this breed, breeders will want to ensure that potential owners are a good match for a Siberian Husky.

To find reputable Siberian Husky breeders, it is important to ensure they live in a cool climate, as Huskies are built for cold weather and can suffer from heat stroke in high temperatures. Other traits to look for in a good breeder include the following: the breeder maintains their own kennels, their huskies have been properly medically tested and immunized, the breeder does not breed huskies with known medical conditions or behavioral problems, does not sells to pet stores or pet brokers, breeders are clean and meet the training and social needs of huskies, are experts in the breed and affiliated with purebred rescue centers, have good references such as the AKC (American Kennel Club ), interview buyers to make sure they are a good match and are willing and able to provide information about the Siberian Husky.


Pug Training Mindset: Psychological Perception On Training A Pug

Pugs are arguably one of the most coveted dog breeds. Their distinctive physical features, like their wrinkled, wrinkled snout and large, loving eyes, along with their charismatic personality, are part of what makes them so cute and lovable. Unfortunately, many people acquire this playful little dog before doing their due diligence on how to train a Pug or understanding the psychological profile of the typical Pug.

In addition to being fun, loving, sensitive, and loyal, pugs are also stubborn, manipulative, and overconfident. Therefore, pug obedience training is a high priority and should be done as soon as possible. Ideally anytime from 12 weeks of age to 6 months of age. Do your training in small isolated blocks of time. Puppies, just like children, have short attention spans. The key to success is repeating, repeating, repeating, and reinforcing positive behavior with rewards.

It’s also important to know that Pugs are highly food motivated!

If you already own a pug, you have probably witnessed many pugs act bigger than they are. They are also quite eager to greet new people and other dogs and are prone to jumping on others for attention. These traits can be security issues for your pug if left unaddressed, but luckily they are easily corrected with proper training.

Another attribute of a pug is their desire to please. Pugs are people’s dogs and they yearn to be by your side all the time. This is important to keep in mind because it can lead to attachment and socialization problems. It is recommended to get your pug used to other humans and dogs at an early age. Pugs generally interact very well with others, especially young children.

Once Pug psychology is understood, you are now ready to move forward with the actual mechanics of Pug training. You can find a more detailed article by searching for “pug training” or “how to train a pug,” but here is an abbreviated list for your convenience.

First, you must establish your role as the alpha dog and take control of your home. Although the small, innocent-looking pugs are stubborn and… They really are a different breed and have their own style. Have you ever heard the phrase “I don’t own a dog, I own a PUG”? Many Pug owners let their dogs have free reign of the house, including their bed and diapers. This type of owner behavior can send mixed signals and give the Pug the impression that he is the alpha dog in the house.

Once your alpha position is established, you need to create ground rules for acceptable behavior around the house. Don’t be seduced by the cuteness of your pug! It’s not cute when your pup bites you while he’s playing or cocks his head to the side when you call him over and just sits there, or barks at squirrels, or, or… well, I hope you get the point here. Everything you do or don’t do is considered Pug training in the eyes of your Pug. You need to determine if your pug will be able to be on the couch, in bed, order food, etc. from the first day your new partner comes home with you.

Pugs are creatures of habit, so you will need to institute a regular schedule that your Pug can count on day in and day out. Here are some areas to consider when creating a consistent schedule.

  • feeding times
  • Walking
  • Play time/mental stimulation

I hope you have found this article useful.

Until next time!



Breeding Sibling Dogs Can Spell Trouble

We live in a fast-paced world. Waiting thirty seconds for a web page to load or three minutes for coffee to brew can seem like an eternity – there are always multiple tasks and projects that need to be done right now. Giving ourselves balance in this hectic, fast-paced life we ​​live in means that sometimes we just want something or someone who will always be there for us, will always love us, and will never have a day when they just don’t have time. for us Even when we’re busiest, people still bring puppies and adult dogs into our lives, and these new friends can be just what we need when life seems too hard or hectic.

But you are a sensitive adult, who cares deeply about little Sally. You can’t be home to her all the time and you don’t want her to be lonely. You are fully aware of your chaotic schedule and you are not kidding yourself about how much time you could spend with Sally each day. That’s why you not only brought Sally home, you also brought her sister, Molly. The decision made logical sense at the time. Molly and Sally already knew each other from the same litter. There was no need to introduce yourself, and you could keep each other company while you were away at work. In theory, it seemed perfect. But then you started noticing some behaviors that you didn’t like very much.

Does this sound like behaviors your dogs exhibit?
Instead of strengthening each other as they grow, they will become dependent on each other. You’ll see signs of Molly panicking when you take Sally to the vet without her, or even when you leave the room for a few minutes. Instead of two full dogs, Molly and Sally will grow up to be each “half dog”, completing each other and unable to function as individuals. The consequences go beyond limiting their mental and emotional growth. When dogs fail to fully grow mentally and are not allowed to gain independence and confidence, they can become destructive, fearful, or even aggressive. While Molly and Sally are bonding, this will also inhibit her ability to form the lasting bond she hopes for with you and the rest of her human family.

Once someone discovers that a potential problem is brewing, they do what anyone living in the information age does. They consult the Internet and start googling. Article after article written by trainers with several years of experience, describes in detail what you are likely to experience. Among the things that other owners of sisters, brothers or brother/sister puppies raised in the same household have or will experience:

• One is dominant; the other is shy
• Double aggression towards other dogs
• Inseparable, although seemingly neurotic relationship consisting of dominance and submission
• Antagonism on the part of the submissive, which appears to be unprovoked aggression on the part of the dominant

The condition that Molly and Sally experience is called litter syndrome.

That’s a terrifying list of problems that can occur, all the result of not wanting your new pup to feel alone. At this point, you may have only seen that they seem to panic when they get separated from each other. Unfortunately, litter syndrome is not something that will end once they mature into their own unique personalities. You have two options of what you can do to help Molly and Sally grow up to be independent. The first option, and most sources say the best option, is difficult and involves finding a new home for Molly or Sally. Separating them will give each one the opportunity to grow and not depend on each other. If you have a dear friend who is willing to adopt Molly, almost overnight you will see the changes in Sally and vice versa. But this is a difficult choice, and not everyone is willing to choose.

The second option is time consuming, but necessary if you want to keep Molly and Sally under one roof. You will have to perform a ‘double duty’. Basically, this means that you will have to raise them separately. Separate the boxes, take Molly and Sally on separate walks, and take them separately to the vet. They can play together, but whenever you interact with them, it must be individually and separately. This will only last for twelve to fourteen months, at which point they will be sufficiently established in their confidence and maturity to be fully integrated.

The sooner you make a decision about how you will overcome littermate syndrome with your new puppies, the better. The longer you wait, the harder it will be for them to establish their own identities as they age.


the gray cricket

You have probably heard of the gray cricket or encountered it at some point, either inside your house singing or outside in your garden. For some people, the gray cricket is an excellent food source for their reptilian pets and they will choose to breed them or buy them from a store. Here you will find some history on the gray cricket, as well as its nutritional content for reptiles and other pets that eat them.


Gray crickets, also known as house crickets or acheta domesticus, are commonly found in the United States and are often found in pet and bait stores across the country. The average life cycle of these insects usually lasts two to three months depending on your climate. Gray crickets generally need a warm environment to grow and live, which ranges from 80 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. They grow to about 16 to 20 millimeters long and will vary in color, but will mostly be gray, brown, or yellow. Many times their wings will cover their abdomens and they have a chirping sound characteristic of their species.

The female gray cricket or acheta domesticus will lay 50 to 100 eggs and will come to be known as nymphs. It will generally take 8-12 weeks for crickets to reach their full maturity levels. When pet stores and bait shops breed crickets, they will usually provide them with warmth, food, water, and a good place for them to lay their eggs. Crickets can be raised in stores, but can also be kept in the homes of reptilian pet owners.

nutritional content

As part of a varied diet for most reptiles and even amphibians like frogs and turtles, crickets make an excellent staple food. Most commonly, crickets are found in pet stores, bait shops, and also through online stores that breed and sell them as reptile pet food. Most stores will gut or feed your crickets high calcium each day before selling them to others to distribute to their pets. There are also powders or calcium powders that can be sprinkled on top of the crickets before consumption. These dusts or powders can also be purchased at stores that sell gray crickets for reptile diets.

Most of the nutritional content that crickets provide depends on what they are fed. In general, gray cricket contains a large amount of moisture, protein, fat, and carbohydrates. Of course, when crickets are put on a calcium diet, they provide about 21 milligrams of calcium. Since a concern most reptile and amphibian owners may have is making sure they feed their pets a diet that is high in calcium and also low in phosphorous, crickets are a great way to make sure the diet is sticking. What normally goes into the acheta domesticus.


Saving and Restoring California’s Historic WPA Mural, Richmond – Industrial City

One would think that Victor Arnautoff, the artistic director of the sprawling murals at Coit Tower in nearby San Francisco and protégé of Diego Rivera, would garner some respect. But even an important oil-on-canvas mural (on the wall) commissioned by the US Treasury Section of Fine Arts for the downtown post office in Richmond, CA, painted by Arnautoff in April 1941, was ripped unceremoniously from the wall.

Records show that during a post office lobby renovation, the historic 6′ 6″ X 13’4″ WPA mural of “Industrial City of Richmond” depicting prominent people and places in Richmond… was considered, at the time, so historically important…and Arnautoff was a leading figure in the New Deal art projects, a national federal program!

Apparently it languished, undetected in the basement of the building for nearly half a century. Then, in 2014, staff at the Richmond Museum of History and Culture learned from longtime member Fran Cappelletti that a mural had once adorned the lobby of the Post Office. Executive Director Melinda McCrary took charge of the search for this important large painting that had been “lost”. Her search took her to the post office janitor and they found a huge triangular box in an unlit room, the tag clearly identifying it as the missing mural. This was exciting!!

Although appreciated by knowledgeable museum staff, getting action by USPS authorities was a different matter. We even had to deal with flooding at the base! When the box was finally opened, there was a collective sigh of relief as he realized that although there was a water stain on the outside of the box, the mural scroll seemed unaffected.

No Controversy Over This Once-Missing Arnautoff Mural
While recent controversy erupts over a mural in a San Francisco medical center as to whether valuable historical murals from the same period as this Arnautoff mural should be saved, there is no doubt at the Richmond Museum of History and Culture that the The city’s heritage is documented and is a legacy of valuable public art. The active historical museum hasn’t embraced the lazy fundraising techniques of begging with a tin cup in hand, but, thinking outside the box, has implemented a vision of community engagement that has been both fun and educational.

On Tuesdays, October 20 and November 10, Scott M. Haskins, the art conservator chosen for the mural’s restoration, in collaboration with the Museum of Richmond, will host a Zoom webinar to showcase, not just the community, the interesting pieces of this history and restoration, but also offers a super engaging educational presentation on what attendees can do on their own to “save their stuff” or preserve collectibles, family heirlooms, and family heritage at home or in the office. Mr. Haskins is a world-renowned author of several books on this subject and he makes it so much fun.

“This is captivating work that captures the diversity of Richmond, a working-class community,” says Melinda McCrary, executive director of the museum. “A wide range of occupations, ethnicities and landscapes demonstrate what life was like in those days. Richmond was a working-class American community.” It is a celebration of life that was created especially for this community.

When the Russian-born Arnautoff painted the mural, he was one of the most prominent and influential members of the San Francisco art community. Between 1932 and 1942, he completed 11 public murals, the best known of which is City Life (1934) at Coit Tower in San Francisco. The Richmond Post Office mural was Arnautoff’s last mural of this size and the first time since Coit Tower that he chose to depict a mix of city folk going about their daily business. His mural depicts life in Richmond beginning in 1941, when the United States was on the brink of World War II.

Restoring an artistic treasure: mural of the industrial city of Richmond

The striking WPA mural was finally declared lost after it was unceremoniously removed from its historic post office in the 1970s. Having found its home at the Richmond Museum of History and Culture under the enthusiastic care of Director Melinda McCrary, a great effort was made with the museum board to find a mural expert to preserve, restore, and install the mural for the enjoyment and education of future generations. I like it.

Scott M. Haskins, art conservator and author, and his team at Fine Art Conservation Laboratories were chosen as the “A” team. All conservation treatments of the mural are done with the idea that the mural will last for generations to come. When a paint company tells you their best quality paint, they mean it will last 10 years. We think in terms of generations, a century. Everything we do has the long-term future in mind,” says Haskins.

He is careful to point out that they (the art curators) are not artists and do not do anything creative. What they do is painstaking work that requires some detective work to determine how and why the original materials used in the painting crumble and how they respond to conservation treatments. “The art conservation process involves knowing how the artwork reacts to the environment.” Haskins and his team were trained decades ago in Italy and have an impressive history of experience restoring prized artwork and murals here in the US.

He points out that the government’s goal in funding art like Arnautoff’s was
establish a legacy. “It was meant to be the artistic mark on our community,” he says. “From a social consciousness point of view, it’s definitely worth saving.”

While art “restoration” might make one think restorers are painting over something, Haskins says they don’t even have oil paint in their lab. Instead, they work with special paint made for art conservation that can be easily removed, if needed in the future, without damaging the original. They use cotton swabs and work on one color, one dot at a time. They are touching it up with a very small brush with just a few hairs, one dot of color at a time. Then they apply the custom varnish in many very thin coats, first with a brush and then with a spray gun to make it very even.

Haskins says the Richmond mural visually appears to be in good condition, but “the drama and traumatic effect of removing it from the wall has taken its toll.” Especially since the glue used in those days is hard as a rock. And the mural needs to be cleaned. “We’re looking to have zero impact on causing more stress. We have to stabilize or cancel the stress in painting from the past,” he says.

Richmond’s Arnautoff Mural presents interesting conservation and restoration challenges. Haskins says that around World War II, there were a lot of new inventions and the war fueled new technologies: paints and varnishes, glues, resins, like for warships, radiators, new building materials, etc. “If the artists found a spare can of paint, they used it. As we get into our tedious and demanding work, we don’t discount the fact that the artist might have used some kind of random non-art paint. We’re hyperactive.” . -vigilant.”

Haskins shares Melinda McCrary’s commitment to preserving the mural: “The idea of ​​preserving our heritage and understanding our legacy is very important to the community,” she says. “Richmond doesn’t have a famous cathedral, but we do have things that spark or ‘trigger’ our memories. People tell stories that perpetuate the value and importance of the times. And this mural is not just a decoration or as an image on a book. It’s a bird’s-eye view to jog your memory.”

On both Tuesdays, October 20 and November 10, Scott M. Haskins, in collaboration with the Richmond Museum, presented a Zoom webinar to show, not only the community, the interesting aspects of the history and restoration of this mural, but also to provide a super interesting educational presentation. about what attendees can do on their own to “save your stuff” or preserve collectibles, family heirlooms, and family heritage at home or in the office. Mr. Haskins is a world renowned author of several books on this subject and made the learning process so much fun.

Richmond’s restoration as a factory town was completed in October 2020.


Ayurvedic therapy for glycogen storage disease

Glycogen storage disorder: an Ayurvedic anticipation

A child developmental disorder is the most common clinical condition in OPD and IPD of Vaidyaratnam PS Varier Ayurveda College, Kottakkal. One fine morning, an anxious couple arrived at the pediatric OPD with their five-year-old son, named Farhan, as he had not yet achieved the ability to walk independently. The child also complained of abdominal distention, recurrent respiratory infections, and recurrent diarrhea. Marked atony of the body muscles was also observed.

The case was not previously diagnosed, since it was his first approach for medical peace of mind. At first glance, it seemed to be yet another case of a developmental disorder; since it represents almost 1/3 of the patients hospitalized in this institution. As the patient was from a disadvantaged family, diagnostic investigations could not be recommended initially.

A complete preliminary clinical examination was then performed, which revealed an enlarged liver. At this time, suspicion was raised as to whether an underlying metabolic cause predisposed to this liver enlargement. Therefore, it became inevitable to advise further investigations. Therefore, serum lactate and serum pyruvate were measured, however, they were found to be within normal physiological limits. Liver function tests showed elevated concentrations of SGPT and bilirubin, although not clinically discernible.

Fasting blood sugar was observed to be much lower than normal. These observations guided the diagnosis of the case as Glycogen Storage Disorder. Searching for the causes of this clinical condition, it was discovered that it was caused by a genetic predisposition or that it could be the result of a toxic accumulation in the body. Analyzing the condition with an Ayurvedic point of view, it was understood to be the result of the accumulation of morbid metabolic toxins in the body. This in turn was precipitated by a decreased performance of digestive and metabolic activities in the body, both at the GIT level and at the tissue level. As established by Ayurvedic principles in such clinical conditions, the objective of the treatment was to guarantee an adequate mobilization of the morbid metabolic toxins accumulated at the tissue level and to improve the digestive and metabolic capacity of the organs involved in the GIT.

Simultaneously with the cleansing of accumulated toxins, the rejuvenation of the individual cells of the body was considered an equally important concern. Following these principles, the patient was gently massaged with the prepared bolus of medicated powders immersed in warm fermented sour porridge. Internally, Vilwadi tablets, Sudarsana tablets, Indukantham decoction and Dadimasthaka powder were prescribed. Along with Piper longum powder, known for its rejuvenating ability (in metabolic disorders of the liver and spleen), it was also recommended internally.

Gradually, to our greatest satisfaction, the diarrhea and bloating were noticeably relieved and the boy seemed much happier. Meanwhile, a liver biopsy was performed, which confirmed the previously made diagnosis. Kidney functions were monitored, however, they were within normal ranges. Subsequently, the FBS was also significantly improved. Surprisingly, by day 45 of treatment, the patient that his parents had brought to the OPD a few days earlier began to walk beside her.


Neapolitan Mastiff Dog Breed Height, Weight, Color, History and Description

Description: The Neapolitan Mastiff is a very strong dog, whose height is from 26 to 30 inches in the dog and from 24 to 28 inches in the female; this breed can weigh up to 165 pounds, with the largest male on record weighing just under 200 pounds. The body is large and stocky with lots of fur on the head and a heavy dewlap. The head is flat and quite broad and appears larger than the rest of the body. The snout is one-third the length of the head and is as wide as it is long. With a large nose that has open nostrils, and the color matches the fur.

The Neapolitan Mastiff’s teeth can meet in a light bite, a pinch bite, or a scissor bite. They have deep-set eyes that are almost hidden by drooping upper eyelids; the color of the eyes is amber or brown depending on the color of the coat. The ears of the Neapolitan Mastiff can be cropped, in countries that do not allow it, they are left natural. The tail is carried up and rounded on the back. With sturdy legs, this dog has rounded feet with well-arched toes. Its coat is smooth, very dense and short-haired. The colors that come with this breed are; black, blue, fawn gray and mahogany and very rarely chocolate. A little white on the chest and toes is allowed, but there should never be any white on the face. This breed has a short life expectancy of up to 10 years.

History: This breed descends from the Tibetan Mastiff, like all European mastiffs. It is generally believed to be the oldest member of the canine species. Being seen in Greece, around 300 BC, and was brought from India by Alexander the Great. The Greeks went on to introduce the dog to the Romans. Who uses these dogs in circus combat. Another thought of how this breed started is that the Phoenicians brought this dog to Britain in 500 BC.

The Neapolitan mastiff is a direct descendant of the Roman molosser. The breed became extinct in the rest of Europe and survived only in Campania, which is why it is said that the Neapolitan Mastiff has existed in Campania for 2000 years. This dog has been used in war, and blood sports, which the Romans liked so much. This dog has a deserved reputation as a guard dog. This dog was first shown in Italy in 1946 and its standards were established in 1949. This is a rare dog in America and was recognized by the AKC in 2004.