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Walking by "W" Circuit in Torres del Paine National Park – Patagonia-Chile

A hiking trip to the end of the world is not something you would normally consider. I am a girly girl whose ears perk at the mention of booking a “spa” or a “villa” rather than doing “rugged mountain hikes.” The luxury travel magazines Travel & Leisure and Departures are my vacation planning sources. However, my tennis partner and good friend, Donna, had planned a trip to Patagonia to celebrate her birthday and insisted that I do something new and different for my next vacation. Always up for an adventure, I agreed to accompany him.

Two months later I found myself on a 10-hour flight from Dallas to Santiago: the first leg of a journey that would end in Torres del Paine National Park in Patagonia, Chile. Torres del Paine is a spectacular unspoiled national park that boasts an impressive mountain range, blue lakes, and magnificent flora and fauna. Located 1,000 miles north of Antarctica, the park attracts tourists from around the world.

I didn’t have time to do much research on the trip and had imagined that the hike would be full of rolling hills and gently sloping trails with a spectacular mountain view. The sound of music comes to mind. However, instead of a relaxing nature walk, the “W” loop (named after the shape of the trail) was a truly challenging hike that covered over 30 miles of territory in just four days. It was going to be a grueling trip for a first time hiker.

The rugged terrain and long days of hiking weren’t the only challenges. Patagonia’s remote location meant that there was no access to TV, radio, phone, or email available. Not having any communication with the outside world was overwhelming at first, but it soon became one of the most attractive aspects of fate. Our entertainment was the pristine beauty of the region. Pure glacier-fed freshwater springs and magnificent mountains revealed nature at its finest.

After a stopover in Santiago, the capital of Chile, we took a four-hour flight to Punta Arenas, the southernmost city in the geographically long and thin Chilean countryside. We spent one night here before driving three hours to Puerto Natales, Chile, a small town that serves as the gateway to Torres del Paine National Park. Here travelers stock up on food and camping supplies before heading to the park. Our group had food and lodging as we had decided to do a small excursion organized by an American adventure travel company that specializes in hiking in South America.

The first day was a four hour boat trip to the park where we saw a colony of condors, sea lions, massive glaciers, and an authentic estancia before stopping for lunch. After lunch, the long-awaited two-hour zodiac boat ride took us deep into the park and offered us unrivaled views of Cuernos del Paine, a part of a magnificent mountain range. It was a beautiful trip but a bone-chilling cold. Even the huge parkas the guides wrapped us in weren’t enough for the heavy Patagonian rain and winds in the open boat. And there are no toilets in the zodiacs. I found out the hard way.

After our zodiac ride ended, we were taken to our first night at Eco Camp, an eco-lodge made up of private tents with two single beds but no heating. Clean bathrooms with hot showers and delicious meals were provided. Here we put the other members of the hiking group: two women from Pittsburgh in their 50s and a young couple from Tampa. They were all experienced hikers with the exception of me. We chat over a hearty dinner and go to bed early to get a good rest before the first day of hiking.

Glorious blue skies, warm temperatures and a gentle breeze welcomed us on our first day of hiking along the shores of Lake Nordenskjold. I was told this five hour hike would be the easiest with rolling hills and only a few steep ascents. The azure blue water of this dazzling lake was my constant companion as I walked its way to our destination at Cuernos Lodge. It was a wonderfully calm day where nature was perfect.

Cuernos Lodge was the first time I stayed in a hostel. Each traveler receives a sleeping bag and a bunk in a room with eight hikers. You don’t think about gender or nationality. Just grab a bunk and go to hay. The lower bunks always grab quickly as hikers are exhausted from the hike and don’t want to climb one more thing at the end of the day. I even politely asked a flirtatious German man to switch bunk with me because I was afraid of heights and received a solid “no way.” It was each for himself.

The next day we get up early to start a challenging ten hour hike that runs along the base of Cuernos del Paine, which are tremendous granite towers in the middle of this loop, towards the French Valley. It snowed all day which made the hike beautiful but a bit treacherous in places. Layered upon layers of clothing, carrying a heavy backpack and walking in a line of similarly dressed travelers made me feel like I was part of an Everest Expedition. We walked all morning until lunchtime, where we sat in the snow to eat. Hungry from the difficult hike, I ate two huge sandwiches in less than five minutes. After lunch we had five more hours of walking. We all collapsed from exhaustion at Camp Pehoe at dusk.

The third day he took us through the Valle del Viento to the base of the Gray Glacier. Incredible 45 mph wind gusts made the hike difficult. It was like walking against a wall of hurricane wind. The ever-changing weather in Patagonia could be discussed at length, but suffice it to say that in a short span of our four-day hike we experienced everything Mother Nature had to offer: bright sunshine and warm temperatures of 65 degrees, followed by temperatures. plummeting to the 1930s with snow, rain and winds nearing 45 miles per hour. Travelers should bring all waterproof gear for the trek and dress in layers, as daily temperatures vary greatly in this part of the world.

On our last day we leave Eco-Camp and head to the Torres base, one of the most popular viewpoints on the circuit. The challenging ten hour hiking day started with a bright sunny sky as we walked from Eco-Camp to the Chilean camp, where we stopped for a quick rest. Hours later, we find ourselves at the bottom of what some call Boulder City: a seemingly endless expanse of large boulders heading upward. High up in the field of rocks, far, far away, he saw a stain of man. “Let’s go there?” I asked my guide in disbelief. He couldn’t believe the hike ahead of him. As I slowly climbed up, I found myself shedding layer after layer of clothing as my heart rate increased due to the difficult climb. I crouched down and moved constantly from rock to rock. At last I reached the top to glimpse the huge towers in the distance. I felt truly insignificant compared to the majestic mountains that surround us and I enjoyed the feeling.

Back at Eco-Camp, we all celebrated by drinking Pisco Sours, the country’s national drink made of pisco brandy, sugar, and lemon juice, and discussed the trip. While some felt a great sense of accomplishment from completing the circuit, I simply enjoyed the fact that I reached the end of one piece. My friends congratulated me on successfully completing my first hiking trip and encouraged me to join them again on a future trip to a new destination. Everest anyone?

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Travel tips:

It comes equipped with waterproof gear, comfortable hiking boots, woolen hat and gloves, water bottle, sunscreen, and wind-resistant gear for inclement weather in the region.

Plan your trip in spring / summer (November – March) when the temperature in Patagonia is mild compared to its intense winters.